Fogo Island Inn: Adventures at the Edge of the Earth

How do I even begin to share my stay at the Fogo Island Inn? After my first trip to the island for only a short while, I feel changed by this destination.

From the sweeping landscapes, a connection to the local community, and a hotel where every detail is thoughtfully curated, Fogo Island leaves a lasting impression. An island off an island, Fogo Island is a remote community nestled off the northeast shores of Newfoundland.

It's named as one of the Four Corners of the World by The Flat Earth Society. While the title is lightheartedly embraced by locals, it truly does feel like you're standing at the edge of the earth.

I had the opportunity to experience Fogo Island through a conference hosted by the Travel Media Association of Canada in Newfoundland. Before my trip, I knew that the Fogo Island Inn was an architectural marvel on stilts and a luxury property in a spectacular location. I'm excited to share the story of an inn that's so much more than an inn.

The Fogo Island Inn supports local Islanders through the Inn's foundation, Shorefast, funding sustainable, economic enterprises, encouraging those who once left to return home. The Inn fosters creativity through its arts and crafts programs.

Furthermore, its tours and programming allow travellers to see Fogo through the eyes of its residents, thus feeling more connected to the island itself.

The word "Fogo" is Portuguese for "fire". We're not quite sure why Portuguese sailors named this place Fogo Island. The island has a population of just under 2500 people and there are 11 communities.

Fogo Island is about 25km long and 14km wide. This is about four times as large as Manhattan. While Fogo Island doesn't appear to be that big on a map, it's covers a lot more territory than you think.

Did you know that Canada has its own Emerald Isle? Though Fogo Island's landscapes are reminiscent of Ireland and Iceland alike, you may truly feel like you've stepped into Ireland when you hear the locals speak. This is particularly the case in Tilting, a community and Irish settlement on Fogo Island that's a National Historic Site.

Irish immigrants came to the island in the 1700s and established the fishing village of Tilting. As this settlement remained isolated on the North Atlantic for centuries, the Irish heritage (and the accents) were perfectly preserved. The Old Irish Cemetery may be the oldest of its kind in North America.

It took until the 1960s for Tilting to receive electricity, running water, roads or a ferry. This meant that those living in the Town of Fogo likely had never ventured across the island to Tilting until the latter part of the 20th century. The Irish Times has even dubbed Fogo as the "most Irish island in the world".

The Seven Seasons of Fogo Island

Winter on Fogo Island means embracing the snow and ice while participating in outdoor activities like snowshoeing, skating and sledding. Get warm and cozy by the fire, curling up with a good book.

Pack Ice season occurs when pack ice travels down the Labrador Current. Large chunks of ice settle in and around the harbours, forging a dramatic landscape. With the ice comes the arrival of seals and maybe even a polar bear or two!

In Spring, the snow begins to melt and Islanders can experience warmer, sunny days mixed with strong winds. Located along Iceberg Alley, icebergs begin to appear across the horizon as they creak and float on by. The first edible plants of the year pop up and foraging commences once again.

I visited the Fogo Island Inn during Trap Berth season. Fisherman drop their markers for cod trap fishing berths on June 1st at noon as they hope for a successful fishing season. The days are longer, the wildflowers begin to bloom, and it's possible to spot whales from the shoreline.

Summer is the best season for getting outdoors, whether it's to hike across Fogo Island's many trails or take a boat trip to the Little Fogo Islands. It's warmer and the seas are calmer. There are more wildflowers, you can pick some berries and wild edible plants, and this is the time to harvest most of the island's farmed root vegetables.

Berry season is, you guessed it, the time to harvest fresh berries. Raspberries, blueberries, partridgeberries and more, this is the time to pick dozens of varieties of berries that blanket Fogo Island. It's also the time to create preserves from the berries, as well as bottle and can them.

Last, with Late Fall season brings a chill in the air. The last remaining berries and mushrooms are ripe for foraging, and the nights feel crisper. It's a time to get in those last hikes before winter and stay cozy by the bonfire.

Fogo Island Inn

The story of the Fogo Island Inn begins with the collapse of the fishing industry and lifelong residents of the island leaving for good. Zita Cobb, an eighth generation Islander, left Fogo Island for Ontario with her family for this very reason. After a successful career in the tech industry, Zita returned to Fogo Island to establish the Shorefast foundation.

The goal was to create a sustainable, economic future for Fogo Islanders while encouraging those who left to come back home. Shorefast is a registered charity that aims to foster thriving communities on the island through a number of initiatives. The Shorefast website claims, "Many luxury properties have a charitable foundation. Our charitable foundation has a luxury Inn."

The Fogo Island Inn is at the heart of Shorefast's work. Through arts and culture, Shorefast generates a sustainable income for locals and in turn, builds the foundation for a business embraced by the global economy. When you stay at the Inn, you'll quickly see how the people of Fogo Island are included and involved with each individual playing a vital role.

Of course, the Inn is famous for its stark, Nordic structure, looming at the edge of the shore. Newfoundland-born architect Todd Saunders (now based in Norway) mixed old and new architectural styles. There's a nod to outport Newfoundland traditions with the stilt legs combined with a modern, contemporary design that looks straight out of Scandinavia.

Fogo Island Inn's Sustainability Practices

The Fogo Island Inn is one of the most sustainable places I've ever had the pleasure of staying. From a financial standpoint, 100% of the profits from your stay go directly to reinvesting in the community. This helps to secure Fogo Island's economic and cultural future.

Every ingredient for meals served at the Fogo Island Inn are sourced as locally as possible, with the exception of things that can't be sourced from Fogo Island, Newfoundland or Canada (like olive oil and coffee).

The rooms at the hotel only use natural materials like wood, cotton and linen. The only plastic item in the room is the telephone. Moreover, there is a plastic bag ban on Fogo Island.

The furnishings and textiles are designed and created by hand by local makers and artisans. All of the furniture is handcrafted on Fogo Island. Each quilt on the bed is lovingly handmade by an Islander. Flip over the bottom corner of the quilt, and you'll see the maker's name stitched into it.

Every room has its own custom-designed wallpaper, inspired by the island. No two rooms are decorated the same. My room had pale yellow wallpaper featuring herds of caribou.

There are vibrant hooked mats, cushioned rocking chairs, and even a handknit scarf that you're welcome to borrow. As part of Shorefast, the makers and artisans at Fogo Island Workshops create furniture, quilts, fabric, wallpaper and more, so guests can bring a piece of Fogo Island home with them.

My Room

I stayed in room #11, one of the Labrador rooms on the third floor. The massive floor-to-ceiling windows offer a glimpse of the rooftop rock installations, as well as sweeping ocean views. A pair of binoculars comes with each room as you can spot whales in the distance from time to time.

This room is the perfect blend of traditional comforts and modern hospitality. There's a state-of-the-art climate control system that continually circulates fresh air from outdoors in the most energy efficient manner possible. For the winter, there's a wood stove to stay toasty warm.

One fixture of the room is the ambient white noise machine. Turn this on and adjust the volume as you like it. You won't hear a peep from the other rooms, and the sound of soothing ocean waves blends seamlessly into the background.

You can open some of the windows to hear the sounds of the ocean. If you don't mind the light coming into the room in the morning, I recommend keeping the curtains drawn while you sleep at night so you can awaken to a stunning view. Sunrise was pretty early when I visited (4:00am!). If you can manage to wake up for sunrise, those skies are pure magic.

Now, let's talk about the bathroom. My room had a walk-in shower with a rain shower head and handheld shower head. There's a bar of handmade soap crafted on the island.

My favourite part of the bathroom was the Japanese toilet. There's a remote control to open and close the lid, heat the seat, control a water spray and fan for drying. It's the ultimate luxury item that I wish I had at home.

Flat Earth Suite

I had the opportunity to tour the Flat Earth Suite. This is the most luxurious of all the rooms at the Fogo Island Inn. It's an 1100 square foot room on the corner of the building with floor to ceiling wrap around windows that span two levels.

This room has two floors: a lofted bedroom up above and a living room and bathroom (with bathtub) down below. If I stayed in the Flat Earth Suite, I'd be tempted not to leave it.

It sleeps up to three people, and there are views to the north, east and south. I imagine watching the sunrise from this suite would be incredible.

Sauna & Hot Tubs

With its Nordic-inspired architectural design, the Fogo Island Inn would not be complete without a taste of sauna culture. The fourth floor rooftop is home to a relaxation space with a fireplace, two wood-fired saunas, and two outdoor hot tubs.

Reserve your sauna at the hotel's front desk ahead of time. You can do this on the same date, and it's all yours just as long as no one else has it booked. I love this system because it allows for the sauna's to be cleaned in between usage, and it means that you have a sauna all to yourself (or for your group).

After you relax in the sauna, head outdoors to the rooftop Jacuzzis. These are available on a first come, first serve basis. The hot tubs offer amazing views of the surrounding area, and it's the perfect place to go stargazing at night.

Fitness Centre

There is a small fitness centre at the Fogo Island Inn. Use the free weights, cardio machines or other exercise equipment. In addition, each morning, Fogo Island-based yoga instructor, Jennifer Charles teaches a yoga class.

Morning yoga takes place daily at 8:00am. Sometimes it is done indoors and sometimes you'll take your practice outdoors. It's a mix of Vinyasa Flow and Restorative styles that are suitable for all levels, even beginners.

Public Spaces at the Inn

There are many public spaces at the Fogo Island Inn to gather with your friends or enjoy on your own. Here are a few notable ones to experience when you stay overnight here.

Art Gallery

The first floor Art Gallery showcases the works of artists who have embarked on residencies through Fogo Island Arts. Part of Shorefast, Fogo Island Arts is a residency-based art venue for national and international artists, designers, filmmakers, writers, musicians and more.

There are four unique studios dotted around the island that are incredible architectural structures in their own right. Their environmental impact is minimal as they're all completely off the grid, making use of solar power, woodstoves and composting toilets.

While these are private studios, you can visit each one as you venture around Fogo Island. There's the Long Studio, Squish Studio, Bridge Studio and Tower Studio.

Cinema

In partnership with the The National Film Board of Canada, the cinema at the Fogo Island Inn has a a state-of-the-art digital projection and sound system. It seats 37 people and it's the very first cinema on the island.

There are regular daily showings of Strange and Familiar: Architecture on Fogo Island. You can also watch documentaries and blockbuster films alike, depending on what's available through the Inn's collection.

Library

The library is situated on the second floor of the Fogo Island Inn. There are bookshelves upon bookshelves filled with fiction and non-fiction books about Fogo Island, Newfoundland and Canada. Many of these books come from the private collection of the late Dr. Leslie Harris, former president of Memorial University of Newfoundland.

Harry and Doreen Cuff also donated a copy of every book that they published through their publishing company, Harry Cuff Publications Limited. This might be one of the best collections of books from Newfoundland on every topic imaginable.

Dining at the Fogo Island Inn

Dining at the Fogo Island Inn is a remarkable experience. All meals and non-alcoholic beverages are included with your stay, including daybreak baskets (delivered to your room), breakfast, lunch, and supper. Even if you're not staying at the Inn, you can make a reservation to dine here.

The main dining room is one of the most beautiful and dramatic spaces at the Fogo Island Inn. There are massive windows that are perfect for admiring the scenery as you dine. We spotted a whale happily splashing the water with his fin as we ate lunch one day. Depending on the time of year, you may be able to watch an iceberg drift by.

The meals are created from locally sourced ingredients, depending on what's in season. They aim for 80% of the ingredients to come from Fogo Island, whether it's foraged items, locally-grown ingredients, or things that are canned and pickled onsite.

The menus will change throughout the year and will list the season at the top of the menu. For instance, I dined here during Trap Berth Season.

As someone who follows a vegan diet, I was so impressed by my meals. In fact, I was over the moon! Not only did the Fogo Island Inn provide vegan options, but they printed out a whole separate menu for each meal with vegan dishes, just for me. There were multiple options that often mirrored what everyone else was eating, but recreated to be fully plant-based.

If you follow a special diet or have any food allergies, you'll be in such good hands at the Fogo Island Inn. I didn't feel like my vegan diet was imposing in any way. The chef was happy to prepare creative and thoughtful dishes free of animal products, even during the seafood boil-up at The Shed.

Daybreak Basket

At 6am every morning, a staff member places a daybreak basket outside of your door. This is a cute wooden box that comes with coffee or tea, plus a baked good. Essentially, it's a morning snack box to start your day before you have breakfast.

I asked to have coffee each morning with oat milk. There was always a vegan treat in my daybreak basket, whether it was a little loaf of bread, a blueberry muffin or chia pudding with fruit. I wish that I could have a daybreak basket at my bedroom door every day at home.

Breakfast

You can choose whether you'd like to have breakfast in the dining room or breakfast in your room. I always chose to have breakfast in bed. Much like lunch and supper, a staff member delivered a fully vegan menu to my room in the morning. Then, I called down to the dining room to place my order.

There are rotating menu selections every day. One day, I had the pancakes with partridgeberries and hemp seed butter. The next morning, I enjoyed tofu scramble and toast, served with plant-based sausage and bacon. There are also vegan breakfast offerings like a vegetable hash, mushroom stew, French toast, oatmeal, and smoothies.

Lunch

Lunch in the dining room is such a treat. Every lunch and supper begins with bread and butter (I had oil and vinegar), a broth, and something pickled. The broth and pickled starters help aid digestion, and they're also super tasty.

My first lunch included a rose broth and pickle, broccoli with lobster mushroom, walnut and onion, and a bakeapple sorbet with marigold and lavender crumble for dessert.

My second lunch had a tomato broth and tomato oil and beet with blackened beet emulsion to start. Then, I savoured a lentil burger as my main, and a plum sorbet for dessert.

Even when we departed for the airport on the final day, the Fogo Island Inn provided me with a sandwich, apple, and cookie to eat at the airport. No detail is spared here!

Supper

We had supper once in the main dining room and once at The Shed. To start, I had freshly baked bread, kohlrabi and sorrel (with golden raspberry and nutritional yeast).

For my appetizer, I had the fireweed salad, consisting of foraged greens and haskap berries. My main was sunchoke with black currants, rye and endive. For dessert, I loved my vegan ice cream with vegan meringue dish.

Dining at The Shed

The Shed is a smaller building just outside of the main Inn. This space is used for special gatherings (we had tea here at the end of our foraging tour) and communal dining opportunities.

The Fogo Island Inn hosts seafood boil-ups with its guests where everyone dines at one long table. You'll get the chance to interact with your fellow guests and enjoy delicious food together.

I was really impressed with how the chefs came up with innovative vegan dishes during a dining experience that predominately focuses on seafood. I had my own bread and butter, as well as my own asparagus dish and special salads.

Furthermore, they transformed a traditional Newfoundland cod dish into a plant-based one using celery root and a nutritional yeast sauce. It came in its own little ramekin and tasted so good. I've never tried anything quite like it. I was happy to embrace the local food traditions without having to sacrifice my personal dietary decisions.

Bar & Lounge

The Bar & Lounge is a great spot to savour delightful cocktails, sip wine or sample refreshing local beer. While alcoholic beverages come at an extra cost, there are also quite a few non-alcoholic beverages on the menu, like non-alcoholic cocktails, coffee, tea and soda.

I ordered quite a few oat milk cappuccinos, lattes, and iced coffee beverages. I also tried their seabuckthorn spritz, a unique spin on the Aperol spritz that uses their own handcrafted ingredients. The lounge is a great place to chat with friends or perhaps try your hand at a board game.

Meals at Any Restaurant on Fogo Island

Thinking of dining out? If you book your stay at the Fogo Island Inn, you're also welcome to dine wherever you like. If you decide to go out to a restaurant on the island, just let the staff know. Your meal will be fully covered no matter where you dine. This is another instance of how the Fogo Island Inn helps foster business and support other establishments throughout the community.

Outdoor Activities and Tours

While you might be tempted to spend your whole stay at the Inn itself, there are ample opportunities to get out and explore the island itself. I suggest that you sign up for as many tours as you'd like. Each day, there are signup sheets placed in the little tea room on the first floor.

There are several activities including hikes, boat trips, community tours with a local host, foraging, tea making, jam making, and the list goes on. I'll highlight the activities and tours that I experienced. Here's a full listing of activities that might be available, depending on the season.

If you simply want to tour around the island on your own, you're welcome to do exactly that. The Fogo Island Inn allows each guest to sign out one of their vehicles so you can embark on a self-guided trip. You don't need to have your own rental car to see the island! Book out a car and drive around on your own as much as you'd like.

Boat Tour to Little Fogo Islands

Hop aboard the MV Island Explorer with Captain Tony and his crew, embarking on a half day sailing to Little Fogo Islands. We drifted out to sea from the Fogo Island Inn towards the Little Fogo Islands. Captain Tony navigated around the islands so we could catch glimpses of seabirds and puffins. We also spotted a whale, too!

Our boat stopped on one of the islands where we walked around this abandoned fishing community. We explored the island for about a half hour, marveling at this beautiful place. While no one lives on the island, some Fogo Island residents maintain some of the little colourful fishing huts for their own personal use.

There's also an old Roman Catholic church on the island that's lovingly maintained. Built in 1867, St. Anne's Church still has a service once per year, and you're welcome to visit on your own anytime.

Foraging and Tea Making Workshop

Fogo Island Inn's adventure guide, Lorie, led our small group on a foraging hike from the hotel along the waterfront. It's amazing how many plants grow wild and free in this subarctic climate. Lorie stopped to show us all of these miniature plants that I otherwise wouldn't have noticed.

We also learned about their uses and why the plants might be foraged. For instance, the rose root succulent plant contains the supplement, Rhodiola. There are 34 different berries that grow on the island. While we weren't staying on Fogo during berry season, we still managed to find partridgeberries and low bush cranberries.

There's wild lovage growing with a taste reminiscent of parsley. Labrador tea grows in abundance, a green leafy plant with an orange underside. Sweet gale is similar to pepper.

Lorie gathered many foraged ingredients along the way and combined them with some others that she had dried from other seasons, like wild roses and blueberries. She brewed a fragrant and flavourful tea for us to sample, and we also had the chance to combine dried ingredients to make a tea blend of our own.

Tours with Community Hosts

There are many community hosts at the Fogo Island Inn. These are are local members of the community willing to take hotel guests on a tour of their favourite places and ones that hold personal meaning to them. It's a great way to get acquainted with the island and learn some interesting facts through personal stories and local tales.

Our community host, Aubrey, took us on a tour of the community of Tilting. We learned that despite growing up on Fogo Island in the Town of Fogo that he had not visited Tilting until he was in his 20s, having visited Toronto before he went to Tilting! Tilting didn't have roads until the 1960s, making it an isolated destination with a preserved Irish culture for centuries.

Aubrey took us to Foley's Shed, a local hangout where the owners host Shed parties. There's so much history within these walls and so many memories. There's memorabilia covering every square inch of surface on the walls and ceilings.

I also learned that Islanders often place a broomstick across their front door. This means that they aren't home right now, but feel free to come inside and make yourself at home until they return. I've never seen a close-knit (and trusting) community quite like this one.

On our way back to the Inn, Aubrey gave us each two rocks. One rock we were meant to throw into the sea on Fogo Island. As for the other rock, we'd keep it with us until we returned back to Fogo Island. I really hope to bring my rock back to the island sometime soon.

Hiking Brimstone Head

Brimstone Head is one of the four corners of the Flat Earth, as determined by The Flat Earth Society. Even though we're all well aware that the earth is indeed round, it really does feel like you're standing at the edge of the planet.

Hike on a well-marked path to the top of this 420 million year old rocky ridge. Towards the end of the hike, there's a wooden staircase leading to a platform that offers 360 degree panoramic views. It's not a long hike that won't take much time to do (2km return), so be sure to fit this one into your schedule.

It's such a treat to gaze down at the colourful villages below, as well as across the vast ocean to the horizon. There are some smaller islands close to the shore of Fogo Island. However, the ocean and the sky collide at the horizon, seamlessly blending into one another.

Getting to Fogo Island

First, you'll need to get to Gander, Newfoundland. There are seasonal direct flights to the Gander International Airport from Toronto, Montreal, Halifax and St. John's, Newfoundland. You can also fly to St. John's and drive up to Gander. There are car rental offices in both Gander and St. John's.

If you're driving to Gander from St. John's, I suggest picking up a rental car at the St. John's International Airport. I recommend using Discover Cars to compare car rental prices across multiple companies to find the best rates. Find and book your rental car here.

In my case, the adventure started in Gander because I took a helicopter to Fogo Island. This is the most scenic route and a way to experience Newfoundland from above.

Rock + Water offers chartered helicopter services between Newfoundland and Fogo Island. It takes about 30 minutes to reach Fogo by helicopter, and then it's just a short car ride to the inn. You can arrange your helicopter journey and transfers with the Fogo Island Inn.

Most people take a passenger and vehicle ferry from the port at Farewell to Fogo Island. The ferries operate several times per day, and it takes 45 minutes to reach Fogo. Unfortunately, the ferries can be unreliable and limited, so many visitors needing to transport their vehicle by ferry line up hours in advance. The staff at the Fogo Island Inn can help advise you regarding the ferries. Here is the ferry schedule.

There are other options for private charters and a land-and-ferry house-car pick-up and return service from and to Gander. Be sure to contact the reservations and guest services team at the Inn to discuss what you'd like to do.

Fogo Island's Lasting Impressions

So, how do I feel changed by Fogo Island and the Fogo Island Inn? Looking back to my days on Fogo Island, I made time to stop and soak up the big picture and admire the little details. As I go about my daily life at home or abroad, I strive to appreciate my moments with more intention.

Just as I crouched down to inspect the miniature leaves of a subarctic plant growing wild and free on Fogo, I'm moved to acknowledge the once overlooked nuances of what's seemingly ordinary. Fogo has encouraged me to embrace slowing down.

More than ever, I strive to live as sustainably as possible. If the residents of a remote island can carefully source local ingredients and materials in an effort to maintain an eco-conscious and zero waste lifestyle, why can't I?

Finally, while I likely won't be placing a broomstick in front of my door like the locals do on Fogo, I'll be making an effort to become part of my own local community. Though it may take a neighbourhood volunteer event or festival to nurture that feeling of belonging, I'm going to smile and say hello more often when walking down the street.

Thank you so much to the Fogo Islanders and those at the Fogo Island Inn for the lasting memories.